Granite is not a very porous product so it's not necessary to preseal material before laying tiles. Usual practise is to proceed with the installation ensuring that you carefully wipe away any residue adhesive or finger marks from the surface of the product as you proceed.

Once the floor is ready for grouting, usually the next day, you can seal the tile surface and grout in one step. Talk to your stone supplier about a suitable sealer. Don't be surprised if he tells you that sealing is not necessary in many instances. You could safeguard yourself by asking him to put that in writing. Always follow manufacturers instructions when you lay or seal products.

If you were laying limestone or marble it would be a good idea to preseal, it's not necessary with granite. In my opinion.

With black marble, like nero Marquina you can use a white or grey adhesive without any risk of show through. I don't think you need an epoxy adhesive. Call a local contractor or one of the adhesive companies for advice. In general a good cement based adhesive fotified with a flexible additive should do the trick.

It is a natural material and while it can be sealed that has no bearing on the products colour, other than making it slightly brighter or duller, depending on the nature of the sealer. Gloss or matt finish?

If anyone can assist please email: m-a-hruska@hotmail.com.

The product you are seeking is manufactured in Italy by Senio Alta Ceramica. Faentina. Their us distributor is Ceramiche D'Italia. You can email them at cdi@cditile.com.

They should be able to assist.

Regards
Infotile Administration

One possible solution is to make sure you remove as much of the residue adhesive as possible so taht there are no loose or flaking residues. Then apply a coat of self levelling compound over the substrate in accordance with manufacturers instructions. This will provide you with a smooth, flat and ready to tile surface.

The levelling compound will remove any slight variations in the surface. Use an adhesive which is compatible, preferably manufactured by yje company which produced the levelling compound.

If the existing floor is sound simply lay Hardie Backer board over the top in accordance with manufacturers instructions and then proceed with the tiling, using a suitable adhesive and a flexible grout.

Ther should be a damp course in place. You should clean the floor thoroughly so all dust and flaking materials are removed, and then seal it with a suitable concrete sealer, which will provide a key for the tiles to bond to. You need to use a compatible adhesive that will adhere to the sealer.

You could lay a new screed over the existing concrete which incorporates a damp proof membrane. Talk to a builder first.

Your best course of action is to contact a major adhesive manufacturer via email or freecall. Speak to their technical department. Both these products can be laid with the same type of adhesive and grout.

The key is to make certain that the ceramic tile is frost resistant and that the work is carried out when its not too cold. The screed needs to be cured and dried, and you must incorporate expansion joints in the tiling wherever joints exist in the concrete base, don't tile over them, they are there for a purpose. Also install perimeter movement joints to cope with potential expansion.

I'm not sure about having fun but you can use a grout rake to remove old grout.  Contact a local tool supplier. When you regrout use an epoxy grout if its a food prep area. I guess you will only need a regular cement based grout. these are available in a multitude of colours. Mix in a flexible additive which will add strength, and improve porosity values.

If these materials are stuck direct to concrete you will need to remove the tile mechanically. The cork may have to be removed by hand with some kind of flat edge implement. I guess there is a height variance between the finished level of the two types of flooring so it may be possible to leave the cork where it is and tile over the top of it and still bring the level of the new tiles flush.

If the materials are stuck to backer board you can leverage under the board with a spade or bar and remove backing board, tile, cork etc. Then re-lay new Hardie board and tile.

Call a tiler to give you a quote it may be cheaper and more expedient in the long run.

The tiling procedure is detailed in our 'Archive 'of articles which can be found under the advice section. See 'Glass mosaic tiling in Pools' in the Tile section.

Call the manufacturer or his distributor. Most grout manufacturers sell 2 types; epoxy and cementitious grout. Epoxy is the best but most expensive. You can improve the flexibility, strength and porosity of cementitious grout by mixing in an additive reccommended by the manufacturer. This is important in wet areas or in locations where the tiling is exposed to movement or change in temperature.. Check with your supplier.

I'm not sure that damage is the correct terminology. Efflorescence occurs with stone and terracotta, and the issue can normally be resolved. As a member of Infotile you can access our growing archive of close to 200 articles on various topics which include installation and maintenance issues.

Check under 'sealing and maintenance' for Colin Cass' article on managing efflorescence, hopefully it will address your problem.